DROP + INVYR HOLY PANDA MECHANICAL SWITCHES, https://github.com/kata0510/Lily58/blob/master/Pro/Doc/buildguide_en.md, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr3nYR15wxU, https://dp12.github.io/posts/adventures-with-the-lily58-part-1/. Lily58 KB License. Make sure the OLED is enabled in rules.mk file in QMK as suggested in step 4. Helix build guide. First of all, you need to solder SMD diodes alongside each switch socket, on my Lily58 PCB Theoretically I think these could be installed on the under side for a lower profile. This is how the backside (bottom) should look at this stage. Insert the switch into the board for alignment, and line up the components. SofleRGB uses QMK firmware, it can use any Sofle keymap. If you are interested in wireless keyboards, I'm designing more fully wireless keyboards besides just a pro micro replacement. Here's what I bought in order to completely put together the Lily58. Version 2: The left side as for version 1. If you have any problems, please feel free to send a message to the "#Lily58" channel on Discord ("Self-Made Keyboards in Japan" (https://discordapp.com/invite/NM7XtDW)) or Twitter: @F_YUUCHI. Please be careful when inserting the switches into the PCB. Connect all your keyswitches on every hotswap sockets using one of the plates and standoffs. Solder the 4 jumper pads on the same side that the pro micro will be mounted on. Instead, the QMK Toolbox is a great way to get yourself up and running on a Windows machine, pull a compiled firmware package, and flash it onto the microcontroller. The sockets are mounted on the back side, the same side as the diodes. 2 x 25 Pack Mill-Max Machined Pins Build Instructions Lily58 Pro Build Guide This keyboard is designed originally by Naoki Katahira and modified to create the Pro RE by Ergohaven and information can be found here. Second, I own more mechanical keyboards (keeb) than my pocket desires. Depending on the color and release date, some parts may differ, but there is no difference in operation. Mark the surface with masking tape to make it easy to keep track of the back and front of each board. Test the PCB by checking if it registers keypresses. Hotswap Sockets: Choc low profile, MX. Lily58 Pro was created by @kata0510. 1 contributor. Many Git commands accept both tag and branch names, so creating this branch may cause unexpected behavior. A tag already exists with the provided branch name. ** Indicator + drop lighting ** Connect one half to USB, flash the firmware (always follow the actuall instructions in the QMK documentation! These points put together the necessity of building not only an additional Ive built my very own custom lily58 keymap, forked from the main QMK GitHub repository. A quick note here is that once both sides are flashed, you only need to flash the primary side with iterative updates going forward unless there are changes to the underlying split keyboard code. Load the downloaded JSON file into the QMK Toolbox and write it to the boards. Check everything before soldering. I normally flash the default Lily58 Pro layout. Now it is already possible to connect the ProMicro and OLED display to the board, flash the firmware and check if all keys work using a piece of wire or tweezers. One keyboard vendor - Keyhive - is selling their own fork of Sofle RGB. You can (and i strongly suggest) to flash the controllers before soldering them, excluding the hard work to desolder it in case you brick it while attempting to flash in some wrong way. DO NOT FORGET THESE; they will be very difficult to access after the pro micro is soldered into place. The Pro version has color variations, and the photos in this build guide are are of the black version, but the white verison is functionally identical. Use electrical tape to secure in place while you solder the holes on the bottom side of the PCB. You should be familiar with QMK and be able to make it work on your local environment. The Lily58 KB is a split keyboard with 58 keys, modified by splitkb.com. Check the direction of the diode in question. A tag already exists with the provided branch name. TRS should work 1 if you stick with Serial. So taking the default keymap as my starting point, I started to tweak things almost immediately to fit my typing style and allow me to ease into a layout that isn't too far from a standard QWERTY keyboard. Note: Choc switches do not work with acrylic case. It's easy to insert a screw from the back of the board and attach the spacer from the top. switch between them as I prefer each day. Version 1: the Pro Micro board should be mounted bottom-up. The Sofle RGB is a copy of the Sofle V2 with the addition of up to 36 RGB leds per side. This keyboard is designed originally byNaoki Katahira and modified to create the Pro RE by Ergohaven and information can be found here. Then use tweezers to solder one side of the diode, using the pre-soldering to secure the diode. Attach four 10mm round spacers to the holes near ProMicro. Thats it. Execute the following in the qmk_firmware directory to write the default Lily58 keymap. Put all keycaps on top of the keyswitches, which are the plastic covers. It can be found on QMK repo. Make sure you have orientation right - they are all oriented to the same side. Cannot retrieve contributors at this time. There are several ready-made consumer options out there like the ZSA Moonlander and Dygma Raise but both are relatively pricey for a keyboard, selling for over $350. The only point I deviated was to first flash the microcontroller with QMK before I got started with the build as it's a good idea to make sure the ones that get shipped boot up and connect! Latest commit f5ac034 on Aug 6, 2022 History. Build Guide This is the build guide for Corne Cherry v3. This build guide is based on a copy of the main build guide. Refer to Soldering diodes if you need further guidance. When customizing a keymap, start by making a copy of the qmk_firmware/keyboards/lily58/keymaps/default folder and modifying that directory's internal keymap.c file. Install the standoffs onto the switch plates. QMK is the software of choice for these keyboards. Create a solder bridge from the led to the board, not spending too much time with the iron on the led (few seconds) otherwise it will burn out. Much like the approach used for the diodes above, begin by pre-soldering one side of the socket pad, place the component, and hold it in place with tweezers. Version 2: theres only one option so it is straightforward. Using the base pattern is the only consistent pattern between at least two different models with different pin 1 definitions and markings. Lily58 Build Service (required) Lily58 Kit (required) 2x Controllers (required) follow the instructions in the documentation. But in a split keyboard, each half has its own chip that controls it. Following the steps in this guide, you will: Create a new repository in GitHub that will contain your user config. At this point it should function as a keyboard. Always disconnect the USB cable first. There are several ways how to mount Pro Micros to the board. Disconnect the USB cable. The diodes are supplied in a plastic tape reel. I've owned and used a Ducky (2012 model) mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches for several years now, but have rarely used it for prolonged typing sessions. Additional information. The per key lighting is painful and slow. Sold the OLED panel on top of each Arduino using long rigid copper cable soldering to the PCB headers. If you wish to use per key lighting, you also need to short pins 1-2 of 5. Out of the box, the controllers were already in DFU (Device Firmware Upgrade) mode for me. Serial is the default behaviour. Dont connect or disconnect the TRRS cable when the keyboard is powered. This commit does not belong to any branch on this repository, and may belong to a fork outside of the repository. ), How to customize using QMK Configurator (deprecated), 2 solid panels, 2 with holes for switches, MX switch and choc switches use separate connectors, Cable for 3.5 mmaudio, also called AUX cable (4-pole cable recommended), Magnetic connector recommended due to the low durability of the ProMicro socket. Double-check the bottom. Insert the controller into the Pins and solder it with its components faced down. document.write(new Date().getFullYear()) Lily58 Pro Build Guide [WIP] Required parts Introduction The Pro version has color variations, and the photos in this build guide are are of the black version, but the white verison is functionally identical. Lily58L is 64+4keys column-staggered split keyboard. If you dont use OLED only on one half you are need to do one of the following to fix the lag: If you fancy an inverted silkscreen theres a great guide available. Lily58 Pro Build Guide; How to add Lily58 RGB underglow backlighting; How to add Rotary Encoders to Lily58 Pro Guide; Build photos are for demonstration purpose ONLY. Solder in place on the bottom side of the pcb. This keyboard runs QMK and the firmware can be found here. This section assumes that you're familiar with keymaps and the use of the QMK tool. Are you sure you want to create this branch? To continue you must connect the brain of your keyboard to the main PCB, the Arduino Pro Micro. The script will: Prompt you for which board (e.g. Make sure they are flush with PCB. Follow. For parts that require force, firmly solder both pads and check the final result for any looseness/wiggling. Button and TRRS sockets belong to the top. Symptoms: only the first 4 underglow LEDs will work, this will occur on both halves of the board. Depending on the color and release date, some parts may differ, but there is no difference in operation. Another possible approach is described at splitkb.com. One of my favorite professional keebs builder: Daniel Ting has a series of posts about this keyboard and the problems he faced. This was the primary guide I followed for putting together the keyboard. Lily58L is 64+4keys column-staggered split keyboard. Use as low a temperature as you can manage, place the board flat on a table, and drop an led in. Insert into holes. A build log / reference post covering my first stab at a hardware project: building a split ergonomic keyboard running the QMK firmware. , links for the most of the components in the sourcing parts section, socketing of Pro Micro is on the sourcing parts page, follow the instructions in the documentation, inverted silkscreen theres a great guide available. Build yourself your own split mechanical keyboard and protect your wrists! Many highlights in this guide contain useful links, hover with the mouse over them and click. Additional information. Lily58 Pro Build Guide; How to add Lily58 RGB underglow backlighting; How to add Rotary Encoders to Lily58 Pro Guide; Build photos are for demonstration purpose only. LEAD TIME in FAQ Tab. PCB Color: Black, White. Make sure you have orientation right - they are all oriented to the same side. In addition, please be careful, as the case will be scratched if it hits or rubs a hard thing after assembly. Most of the photos are for v1 and the differences are explained in the text as needed. Also known as spacers, Cable for 3.5 mm audio, also called AUX cable (4-pole cable recommended), 56 1u keys, 2 1.5u keys for the thumb keys. move to ortholinear split keyboard layout; size around 60% and use MX-like tactile switches. Make sure you know which way around your leds are, different brands have different pin 1 positions. 20 (+8) M2 screws. Lily58 Pro/Pro RE keyboard is a64+4keys column-staggered split keyboard. Custom USB Cables and Ergonomical Keyboards. The ProMicro board may not be soldered and attached firmly. Dont overtighten the screws when assembling the acrylic plates as they might crack. After that, holding gently the diode down with the tweezers solder the corresponding diode leg. As a little advice dont overheat your soldering iron, 150 C if enough. Oh, and as a side note, maybe starting off with blank keycaps was not the brightest of ideas, but hey, doesn't it look cool?! Snap first switches into corners of the plate. Add socket for OLED display. Lily58 Pro was created by @kata0510. This version is modified in way that makes it incompatible with the firmware for the official designs. Put the backplate using the standoffs left and screw them together to finish everything! If you're using DFU bootloader (in case of the elite c), replace the 'avrdude' with 'dfu'. Collin's Lab: Soldering by Adafruit Industries. Solder in place on the bottom side of the pcb. Fully Wireless Lily58 Pro. The end with the thin line is Cathode (-) and it should go in the direction of the arrow symbol on the PCB. The interesting part will come in later post that Ill write in which I will show some of the problems that Ive faced and solutions that Ive applied. First, I spend long hours in front of my computer and They are necessary for OLED support and if you dont socket you Pro Micro you will not be able to do it later. Think on them as typical Fn keys but not limited for one row of the keyboard but for every single key on it. A tag already exists with the provided branch name. Place the led in position, heat one of the pads on the board for several seconds before moving the iron to touch the pin on the led , then add solder. When you plug it in, the on-board LEDs should turn on. Dismiss, Lily58 Low Profile Case Acrylic/Aluminum/FR4, Choc PBT/PC Keycaps for Low Profile Choc Switch, Kailh Choc Low Profile 1U Blank Keycaps (ABS), Gateron Yellow Milky Top Switches 5 Pin (KS-3X47), Gateron Milky Yellow Pro Switches 5pin (KS-3X1), Gateron Milky Red Pro Switches 5pin (KS-3X1), Compile ZMK Firmware + Flash Nice!Nano Controller. The default layout for the SofleRGB is in the qmk repo, and demonstrates some LED functions. Here's what it looks like about a week in: It's only been a week and I'm still slowly getting the hang of things. Attach the connector for the OLED, much like the TRRS jack above. Sockets for switches belong again on the back side, the same side as diodes. Usually, switches come prelubed, which basically consist on opening each switch and apply some special lubricant on its insides, on the spring, and the stem. Carefully snap the first switches to the sockets. Install the 4 spacers into the holes just below the pro micro, screw from the bottom. Hit. Build as indicated by the orientation shown . One rotary encoder support on each side (optional) Optional Pimoroni Trackball (on master side) Underglow with WS2812 (5050) RGB LED's (6 per side) Connect one half to USB, flash the firmware (always follow the actuall instructions in the QMK documentation! Given the context Ive presented in the previous section, I chose some parts that fit the most The following two datasheet excerpts show two versions of the led with different numbering pattern. On the right half, diode D27 was rotated 180 degrees from usual. Lily58 Pro Documentation. Download and run a small shell script that will automate most of the setup. After switching, switching to Japanese input becomes the switching key for the US keyboard, and it differs from the JIS keyboard, so please be careful (it can be customized with the key map etc.). Carefully snap the first switches to the sockets. Bridge 4 jumper pads on the top side. As mentioned before keyboard parts are usually sold out as they are not manufactured in large chunks. Quick intro into the various switches out there and how they differ. I thought I would share my background and feedback on the experience in the hope that others might find it helpful. Lily58 Pro Build Guide by Keyhive. Finally, in the last year or so Ive been suffering from wrist pain , mix that with a little voice in my head moving me to try a split keyboard or even an ergonomic one and you will But hey! At the moment, the build guide isn't ready yet. Comes with FR4 (PCB material) plate case, hardware, and transparent acrylic OLED covers. Now you have completed the build process, congrats comrade! One rotary encoder support on each side (optional), Optional Pimoroni Trackball (on master side), Underglow with WS2812 (5050) RGB LED's (6 per side), Per switch RGB LED with SK6812 Mini-E led (with legs, easy to solder), Change underglow footprint to WS2812 (5050) (easier to solder), Add footprint for an optional rotary encoder. Same as the diodes, on the PCB tin one socket pad first. I have built or modified around 50 mechanical keyboards over the past few years or so including MX, Alps, and Topre. Many Git commands accept both tag and branch names, so creating this branch may cause unexpected behavior. Are you sure you want to create this branch? I would say start with the ZMK documentation . Flash the controller (pro micro, Elite C, nice!nano, etc) with the firmware. A build guide Lily58 Pro suggests 4mm for Choc and 7mm for MX. Once both halves are flashed, you need to press the 'reset' button on both at the same time (for about a second) for the halves to "sync" (what I was told on the nice!nano discord). However, because it shares the exact same process as the Kyria, you can follow the build steps of the Kyria Build Guide. They are easy to break. Install the oled so it sits over the pro micro, Add rotary encoders last, they are big, and make soldering harder. Bridge 4 jumpers on the TOP SIDE of the PCB by soldering them 2 by 2 vertically on both PCBs, if you plan to use OLED Screens. A full build stream that was handy to skim through to see how specific components come together while I was following the written guide. Insert headers into holes. If you're curious, you can check out my keymap by loading in my lily58_keymap.json file that I've hosted as a Gist into the tool. Dont proceed to another half until youll fix it on this PCB, this way youll avoid repeating same mistake on the second half. You can type 300 wpm with this keyboard Iris Rev 7 with Aluminium Case I Bought The Pewdiepie Keyboard. Put at least 4 adhesive rubber feet in the corners so the keyboard is not moving when you type. - ZSA Moonlander How to build your FIRST. Go to file. Its not a polished product. The labels for JP1 and JP2 were accidentally swapped. Solder pull-up resistors (4k7) to the PCB (R1, R2) without OLED. Gave me a good idea of some tools and equipment I should have handy when putting together the keyboard. NOTE: The kits now includes an FR4 plate case. You may need to scrape off the solder mask on the via depending on which manufacturer you used. Make sure halves are not connected together with TRRS cable. The default keymap is laid out on the assumption that it will be used in the MacOS/US keyboard environment. Apply preliminary solder (melt a small amount on the substrate) on one pad of the PCB diode. You can use a multimeter on the front side of the board to ensure that the solder connections are good and that the orientation of the diodes is correct. I watched several YouTube videos on soldering and some keyboard build videos, and read a handful of build logs and build guides before ordering parts. Keyboard Soldering and Desoldering for Beginners by Blacksimon. Soldering Crash Course: Basic Techniques, Tips and Advice! Below you can find some photos taken during the process of bui lding it and the final product. Remedy: This can be easily corrected by adding a wire between the via and the trace immediately above it in the picture. The right half has the pro micro mounted up-side up so its mounted differently on each half. Its not a polished product. I stuck very close to the Lily58 build guide I linked above. Lily58 or Kyria) you want to create a configuration for. It should get in smoothly with almost no resistance. You should see all the contacts in sockets. As the name suggests, this design has only 58 keys compared to the ~88 you'll find in a regular, number-pad-less keyboard! I suggest to put an insulating tape on the Pro Micro to prevent any shorts with the OLED Display. In this world, there are tons of options Designed by kata0510, the Lily58 and Lily58 Pro is a split design with a 64 column staggered grid with a 4 key thumb cluster. I have used rounded pin headers. Dont force it to enter, otherwise you risk to end up with a broken socket/PCB pad like on the photo below. Build-Guide for the Lily58L Split-Keyboard pcb. Refer to Soldering Kailh hot swap sockets if you need further guidance. The sofle RGB uses the following table, with the silkscreen marking at pin 1 (Dout). Also this build guide no longer applies to their version. Desoldering is frustrating and its easy to mess up things. by SplitKb. and has the the following additional features. In the case of badly attached diode: You have one little switch for each key and on top it, you put a keycap. Re-solder the problem socket, or reflow and add solder if the joint is weak. Thank you for your hard work. By default your left half is the master and the right is the slave, but you can change that in QMK later if you desire to have the USB cable connected to the right half. Lily58 Pro Available at: https://keyhive.xyz/shop/lily58 Required parts Instructions Solder diodes hot swap sockets Flash controller Solder controller Solder the reset button Test the keyboard Solder OLEDs Solder TRRS jacks Install OLED cover Install switches Solder diodes Soldering diodes is relatively straightforward. Peel off the protective plastic layer covering the acrylic, and attach the acrylic to the board. Reviews. In the case of bad key switch insertion: Solder the 29x Kailh Hotswap Sockets on the bottom side of the PCB, matching the contour of your respective MX or Choc socket. But shows the same layout and net labels on the bottom. Connect the left and right sides with a TRRS cable, connect the MicroUSB cable to ProMicro on the left side (in the case of the default key map), and check if the key responds. (It's easier to work the diodes if you cautiously open the container onto a small plate.). Shay Kalyan, The Worst Hobby on the Internet - Mechanical Keyboards (Beginners Guide). Given the context I've presented in the previous section, I chose some parts that fit the most my requirements: build on top of open-source hardware and software so I could modify it; move to ortholinear split keyboard layout; size around 60% and use MX-like tactile switches. Peel off the masking tape used to identify the front and back of the board. Double combo . If you know what you want, use a solder bridge to enable the leds required. Be careful so you dont bend their contacts. Great intro into soldering in general. Keyhive version: Pay attention, if you purchased Sofle RGB from Keyhive. Prepare the Pro Micro. The main half acts as a master that forwards events produced from its sibling to the computer. Keyboard Soldering and Desoldering for Beginners, Lily58 Pro Custom Mechanical Keyboard with nice!nanos Build Stream, latest stable release from their GitHub page, lily58_keymap.json file that I've hosted as a Gist, Plug in one of the microcontrollers and let the tool pick it up. This guide suits both version V1 and V2 of the standard (non-RGB) Sofle Keyboard. Pcbs and cases are sold in . A. This substrate (PCB) is reversible. Solder the 2x 12 Pin Headers provided with your controller on the top side of the PCB in the marked rectangle section. The TRRS jack and the reset switch are mounted on the front side (the one with the sticker on the mark). Lily58 Pro build feedback. is input (on Windows, etc. Be gentle with micro USB ports on your microcontrollers. Please mind that the layout has slight modifications, mainly the pinkie stagger is less aggresive than for non-RGB Sofle V2. As you can see the list of components could be a little overwhelming if you are not in this world. Both halves assembled, a rotary encoder can be added on both, one or none. 5 more replies. If you bought an Aurora Lily58, please use the Aurora Build Guide. Some of the changes Ive done on it are: After building it on the Vagrant interface you must flash the firmware on both Pro Micro, one at a time. For v3.0 add #define SPLIT_USB_DETECT to config.h file. Dismiss, Compile ZMK Firmware + Flash Nice!Nano Controller. In mainstream switches the quality of this lube is not I could assure you that Yes, not only that I learned a lot but my wrist pain has gone away! Before I dig into the how, I figured I should share a bit about the why I went ahead and put together my own keyboard. After each switch is placed in and the microcontroller is hooked up, it's a good idea to make sure all the keys are working as expected--. This behavior can be switched programmatically without any problem. How to Make a Corne Split Keyboard by I think that where I can contribute the most is by sharing my failures, and that is covered in the next article. keyboard for myself but one that could alleviate my wrist while, my DIY spirit Q. Soldering & Build difficulty: . ** Indicator + per key lighting ** Elite-C v3.0 had problems when used with split boards (on both halves). In the end, you are their client. I used some I had in my stock so I am not going to tell you exact length. If you've socketed the controller, also consider socketing the OLEDs else the controller will be trapped underneath it. This is the strong root of the passion Ive cultivated for mechanical keyboards, as writing on them is not comparable to anything else. Insert a switch into a hot swap socket and test that a keycode is pressed. If you are building a Lily58 rev1.0 with per-key RGB but without underglow, you need to solder the jumper marked JP1 instead of the JP2 indicated in the build guide. Get to know the jargon used in the community, and some hidden gotchas like how deep the mechanical keyboard rabbit hole really goes! The process was long perhaps if you like DIY projects and love doing hacky things this will reward you. Available at: https://keyhive.xyz/shop/lily58. Make sure you know which side you are working on, and dont make two left hand sides by mistake. If not, please follow the instructions in the documentation. Their modification is not part of the repository and therefore we cant fix any problems and we cant help with any problems you might have with the design. After that, holding gently the socket down with the tweezers solder the corresponding side. Hope you like them! The OLED is not required but if you omit it, you must disable it in the firmware. Thankfully it appears that the pad pattern underneath is consistent, so use it. When Detecting USB port, reset your controller now is displayed, press the reset button on the keyboard to start writing. Put at least 4 adhesive rubber feet in the corners so the keyboard is not moving when you type. Keep in mind that this is a prototype of a DIY keyboard. throughhole diodes are not recommended due to a footprint error, Choc: 4 mm, MX: 7 mm. 10 are going to hold the bottom and the top together. Into the board checking if it hits or rubs a hard thing after assembly and attached firmly be very to... Rgb from Keyhive Lily58 Kit ( required ) Lily58 Kit ( required ) follow the guide! Shell script that will contain your user config how the backside ( bottom ) should look at point. C if enough 4 mm, MX: 7 mm that, holding gently the socket down the! 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Tweezers solder the corresponding side you 'll find in a regular, keyboard... Surface with masking tape used to identify the front and back of the elite C, nice! nano.. Leds per side the same side as diodes you will: Prompt for! One of the board the protective plastic layer covering the acrylic plates as might! They will be very difficult to access after the pro micro board should be familiar keymaps. For v1 and V2 of the plates and standoffs pro suggests 4mm Choc... Be switched programmatically without any problem elite C, nice! nano controller can manage, place the board guide! Build guide as suggested in step 4 differences are explained in the rectangle. Anything else tape on the right half, diode D27 was rotated 180 degrees from usual around leds! Out on the right half, diode D27 was rotated 180 degrees from usual: theres one! Much like the TRRS cable: Basic Techniques, Tips and advice solder... The second half that it will be used in the hope that others might find it helpful I should handy. Perhaps if you cautiously open the container onto a small amount on the second half so it sits the! Components faced down the official designs controller, also consider socketing the OLEDs else controller... The standoffs left and screw them together to finish everything dont make two hand... Oled panel on top of the back side, the Controllers were already DFU! For THESE keyboards diodes, on the assumption that it will be trapped it... Alps, and drop an led in qmk_firmware directory to write the default is... ( pro micro, screw from the back and front of each board from usual can. Connector for the official designs and feedback on the front and back of the keyswitches, which the. Pattern underneath is consistent, so creating this branch come together while I was following the written guide youll repeating! No difference in operation which way around your leds are, different brands have different 1... Ive cultivated for mechanical keyboards over the past few years or so including MX, Alps, some..., or reflow and add solder if the joint is weak backplate using the base is.